Tired of scrolling through eBay to analyze the coin market and figure out what price to set for your 1955 wheat penny value? Try to review your coin again, maybe you will find a valuable mistake, for example, off-center or die break.
Of course, they are quite rare, but Double Die error is more common, because there are about 40,000 such tokens out of the total circulation.

History and Features of the Coin
The Lincoln Cent was first produced in 1909 to celebrate the 100th birthday of President Abraham Lincoln, made before 1958, are known as “Wheat Pennies” — pictures of two wheat ears around the words “ONE CENT” and “UNITED STATES OF AMERICA” on the back side.
The year 1955 was almost the end of this coin series, even though the wheat ears were still made for three more years, and the 1955 coins were made as part of the normal series.
1955 Features
- Philadelphia (P): These coins have no mint mark
- Denver (D): These coins have a small “D” mark under the date
- San Francisco (S): Making regular coins at this mint stopped in 1955
| Mint Location | Mint Mark | Mintage | Metal | Weight |
| Philadelphia | None | 330.6 million | 95% Copper | 3.11 g |
| Denver | D | 563.2 million | 95% Copper | 3.11 g |
Normal Value of the 1955 Penny
Most of the over 890 million coins made in 1955 don’t have a high value, especially if they are old and worn out.
Things That Change the Price of Normal Coins
Grading Using the Sheldon Scale
- Circulated (Used): These coins have clear signs of use (G, VG, F grade) and usually cost about $0.10 to $0.50
- Extremely Fine (XF) / About Uncirculated (AU): These coins were almost never used, and their price can go up to $1 to $5
- Mint State (MS): These are perfect, unused coins (MS-60 and above)
Red, Red-Brown, Brown
- BN (Brown): The color is oxidized and brown
- RB (Red-Brown): The coin still has some of its red shine
- RD (Full Red): The coin has kept all of its first red, copper shine
Mint Location
- 1955-D (Denver): Because many were made and they are often in good condition, the 1955-D coins are easier to find in low and middle grades than the Philadelphia coins, but finding a 1955-D in MS-67 RD condition can cost thousands of dollars.
| Coin | Condition (G/F) | Condition (XF/AU) | MS-65 RD (Full Red) | MS-67+ RD (Record Grade) |
| 1955 (P) | $0.10 – $0.25 | $1 – $3 | $20 – $40 | $500 – $1,000+ |
| 1955-D | $0.10 – $0.25 | $1 – $3 | $30 – $60 | $4,000 – $8,400 |
Note: The highest prices for 1955-D MS67+ RD coins have reached $8,400 at sales.
Description of the “Doubled Die” Error
The Doubled Die is not an error where the coin was hit twice, but it is a mistake in the process of making the die which is the tool that makes the coin:
- How It Happened: The working die is made by pressing the master die into the die blank many times, but in 1955, during one of these pressing steps, the die moved a little, resulting in the elements being stamped twice with a small but very clear shift.
- How It Looks: A strong doubling of these elements on the front side:
- The Date (1955): This is the most visible doubling.
- The Words ‘LIBERTY’
- The Motto ‘IN GOD WE TRUST’
Important Difference: The picture of Lincoln is only doubled a little or not at all, because it was put on the die earlier than the date and the words.
Discovery History and Number Made
People believe that the mistake happened at the Philadelphia mint, and because of a problem with checking the quality, about 40,000 coins with the doubled die were accidentally mixed with a huge group of normal cents.
How to Know a Real One: Doubled Die vs Machine Doubling
| Feature | Doubled Die 1955 | Machine Double Strike |
| Look | The elements are wide and clear and look like two thick fonts, and the doubling is round and wide in the same way | The doubling looks like a flat, stepped shadow or a shift that is right next to the edge of the main letter |
| Reason | A mistake in the process of making the die | A mistake during the striking process |
| Value | From $500 to $38,400+ | Close to regular coins |
Advice for Looking: If you see that the doubling is the same width all the way along and looks like a separate part of the date, then you probably have the Doubled Die coin.
Value of the 1955 Doubled Die
| Condition | Approximate Price (USD) | Description |
| G-F (Very Worn) | $500 – $1,200 | The date and words can be seen but are very rubbed off |
| XF (Excellent) | $2,000 – $4,000 | There is very little wear, and the doubling is clear |
| AU (Almost Unused) | $5,000 – $8,000 | There are almost no signs of wear, but the first shine is gone |
| MS-63 (Mint State) | $10,000 – $15,000 | The coin is in collector condition and has a shine |
| MS-65 RD (Gem Unc) | $20,000 – $30,000+ | Perfect condition, with a completely red color |
Auction Record: The most expensive 1955 Doubled Die coin that has ever been sold reached a huge price of $38,400 for a coin in the MS-67+ RD grade.

Advice for Collectors
Buying and Certification
- Certification is Necessary: You must never buy a 1955 Doubled Die coin without getting a certificate from the main world grading companies, like Professional Coin Grading Service or Numismatic Guaranty Company, as the certificate makes sure that the Doubled Die is real and that its grade is correct.
- Choosing Where to Buy: It is best to buy the coin at big coin sales like Heritage Auctions or from good sellers who work with American coins.
- Checking the Price: If you find such a coin in your own collection, do not try to sell it yourself, but first, send it for professional grading.
Storage
Copper coins are very easy to damage by the environment, and their color can change from RD to RB or BN.
- Use Safe Materials: You should keep the coins in special holders or slabs
- Control the Environment: You should not keep the coins where there is a lot of wetness, direct sunlight, or where they can touch PVC plastics or paper envelopes.
Conclusion
In general, most 1955 tokens are simple and cheap to collect, and their value depends on whether they are in perfect condition and retain their color.
As you understand, if there are different types of doubling, if you do not fully understand what is wrong with your coin, then first contact your colleagues at the formulas and offline exhibitions, collect opinions — if the majority is inclined to one specific type of error, then it is better to send your token for certification and safely put the appropriate price tag.
Your task for today is to scan the token through the Coin ID Scanner, collect all possible information, and later use a magnifying glass to examine all the smallest details, and if possible, photograph them for further examination.
